From scrap denim to sustainable fashion

Shawanna Charles stitches sustainability into every seam, marking each design with a denim Canadian flag to show its origin and commitment to slow fashion.

Charles said the detail reflects both identity and transparency as her brand expands beyond Canada and fast fashion norms.

“I was getting a lot of orders from the U.S., so I felt like I should indicate where it’s actually made,” she said. “I didn’t want to write Made in Canada, so the flag felt like the best way to show that.”

Shawanna Charles, a first-year fashion arts and business student at Humber Polytechnic, transforms discarded denim into new fashion pieces.

Charles said she began creating designs during the COVID-19 lockdown to pass the time and has since grown the work into her own business, shawanna.

Charles officially launched her brand in 2024, producing bags, clothing and accessories using recycled denim.

“I hope people see it is possible to create a circular fashion industry instead of a linear one,” she said.

Canadians throw away about 500 million kilograms of clothing and other textiles each year, according to Environmental Defence.

Karen Wirsig, senior program manager for plastics at Environmental Defence, said synthetic materials are a major contributor to the problem.

“A growing amount of our clothing is made from plastic, which comes directly from oil and gas,” Wirsig said.

She said these materials also create pollution during use.

“All this synthetic clothing gives off fibre microplastics, in particular when we wash them,” she said. “These fibres enter wastewater systems and eventually make their way into lakes and rivers.”

Charles said sourcing usable denim presents challenges because she only uses 100 per cent cotton. She collects materials from donations, friends and thrifted items, but often rejects garments due to damage or fabric blends.

“A lot of things are interwoven with polyester nowadays, so I can’t always use them,” she said.

Sandra Leutri, manager of sustainability at Humber’s Office of Sustainability, said student action plays a role in environmental change.

“Every single small change matters,” Leutri said.

She said overconsumption remains a central issue in the overproduction of polyester clothing.

“Everything is polyester these days, and polyester is plastic,” she said. “So we’re just wearing plastic.”

Charles challenges this issue by using only 100 per cent denim in her designs. She said she works to minimize waste at every stage of production.

“I use those little scraps of fabric to stuff my teddy bears,” she said. “I’m always looking for ways to continue recycling.”

Hailey Carnegie, a media relations representative for Value Village, said the company uses a reuse-and-recycling system to extend the life of donated clothing.

“We have a strong supply chain, which allows us to sustain the quality merchandise selection that Value Village’s shoppers expect,” she said.

Carnegie said items that do not sell are redirected to partners or repurposed through recycling processes.

Wirsig said many garments remain difficult to recycle due to synthetic blends.

“You can theoretically recycle a bunch of stuff, but nobody’s collecting this stuff that way,” she said.

The United Nations has identified fast fashion as a major contributor to global waste, linking overproduction to environmental damage.

Carnegie said demand for second-hand clothing continues to grow, helping extend the life of items people no longer want.

Camara Rainford, a close friend of Charles since 2021, met her while working at an organic grocery store in Kensington Market.

Rainford said Charles’ work ethic stands out.

“If she wants it to happen, it will happen,” they said. “She’s determined and optimistic.”

Rainford said Charles remains resilient under pressure.

“No matter what’s thrown her way, she can deal with it,” Rainford said. “Her positivity is insane to me. I really respect it.”

Before entering the fashion program, Charles studied film, where she developed an interest in storytelling. She said that perspective now shapes her design process.

“Every single piece I make has a story tied to something happening in my life,” she said.

Charles said she left film because she wanted creative independence.

“I felt like at the end of the day, I didn’t really have anything for myself,” she said. “So I thought, why not start something of my own?”

Running the business independently presents challenges. Charles manages design, production and promotion while balancing school.

“Being a one-woman team is really challenging,” she said. “Everything is on me.”

Charles plans to expand her brand through a runway show and eventually open a boutique in Toronto.

“I want to build a fashion community in Toronto,” she said. “It’s not a trend, it’s a lifestyle.”

In a world where clothing is worn and thrown away, Charles proves that what we discard still has a future.

If clothing can be remade, why do we throw it away?

Charles shares her designs on Instagram (@shawannadotca) and TikTok (@shawanna.ca), and sells her creations through her website, shawanna.ca.